SHELTER DOG BEHAVIORAL ANALYSIS
by Kim Geisert, CPDT-KA
October 4, 2022
The following is an excerpt from an actual behavioral analysis report I sent to one of our fantastic local rescue groups. Read on for insight as to how a behavior evaluation is conducted and why certain recommendations for modification and training protocols are chosen, based on observable behavior.
Behavioral analysis for Romeo, appx. 1.5 yo, 90 pound black Labrador Retriever, currently at a boarding facility since mid September. Romeo was surrendered by his former owners and has been in boarding for the past two weeks where the policy is that rescue dogs are not permitted in play groups with client dogs. Alternatively, Romeo would receive four 15-minute solo play periods with a staff member daily. However, due to Romeo’s increasing confinement anxiety, the staff members are unable to lure him or otherwise corral him to go back into the kennel at the end of the play period, and it is unclear how much time he is spending outside of his run, which is an approximately 4 X 30 feet concrete block with chain link fence. Staff members have reported that he lunges, fights the leash pressure, growls, bites at the enclosure gate, and jumps on them when refusing to be re-confined.
I spent about 75 minutes with Romeo in an enclosed play yard, about 10 X 100 feet, which was more than adequate for our purposes. My goal was to administer as much of the C-BARQ as possible: The Canine Behavioral Assessment and Research Questionnaire. This is a widely used standardized test designed to highlight the area(s) in which a pet dog or shelter dog may need behavior modification, has been in widespread use since 2005, and has been administered to over 50,000 dogs. It was designed to help pet owners, professionals, veterinarians, scientists, and researchers use observable, non-biased data to direct dogs to appropriate and beneficial b-mod protocols. The 14 main behavioral test areas are:
- Stranger-directed aggression: hostile/threatening responses toward an unknown person
- Owner-directed aggression
- Dog directed aggression against unfamiliar dog(s)
- Dog directed rivalry, against other dog(s) in the home (resource guarding, bullying, fighting)
- Stranger-directed fear: anxiety and stressful body language in the presence of unfamiliar people
- Non-social fear: wary/fearful responses to unexpected noises or other novel stimuli (noise- or neo-phobia)
- Dog directed fear: wary/fearful responses to unfamiliar dogs
- Separation-related behavior: observable isolation distress when removed from the owner/primary caretaker
- Attachment and attention-seeking behavior: while owner/primary caregiver is present
- Trainability: willingness to work for reinforcement
- Chasing/prey drive
- Excitability: measuring arousal levels and ability to disengage from potential triggers
- Touch sensitivity: measuring cooperation for vet/grooming visits, being touched by unfamiliar person(s)
- Energy levels: physiology; define the physical exercise requirements
Obviously, I was not able to test in the areas involving the owner or other dogs, but I was able to video record and test the other areas, as well as evaluate Romeo’s leash behavior on a brief walk on harness and leash inside the enclosure. I will link the video below, and here is a synopsis with my thoughts on how the session went.
We began the session by addressing Romeo’s need to expend some energy. He showed no signs of stranger-directed aggression towards me, and although he briefly resisted me putting on the Freedom harness, he quickly submitted, and I was able to attach it in about 30 seconds. I had scattered several toys, interactive (treat-dispensing) puzzles, and loose treats on the ground for him to explore once he entered the play area. Interestingly, he ignored the scattered treats and treat puzzles, which I attributed to his being “over threshold”—too much stimuli at once, making it difficult for him to process thoughts rationally. He immediately went to the licky-mat though—similar to a silicone or rubber pot holder that is spread with peanut butter and treats for the dog to lick off. Then he wanted to run the length of the enclosure, and he engaged happily with the chuck-it ball, a frisbee, and a rope toy. He absolutely needs this level of physical exercise for several minutes per day, at his age and with his energy level.
Next, I tested his fluency in basic obedience cues, and noted how willingly he worked for a non-food reinforcer (the chance to chase a ball). This is a wonderful characteristic of a young, working breed dog. I tested his touch sensitivity and nonsocial fear (#13 and #6 of the C-BARQ) with an umbrella, a brush, my hands, and different noises (a squeaker, a whistle, and a clicker). His reactions indicate good socialization skills and confidence around unfamiliar stimuli. He has a high degree of fluency in several basic obedience cues, including Touch, Sit, Wait, Down, and Leave It, and I would rate him as exceptional in #10, trainability. By this point, he was eagerly taking beef liver treats as reinforcers. He corrected himself when I asked him to wait while I put a treat-filled bowl on the ground. Initially, he stood up before I released him, but immediately sat back down and was able to wait for release on the second attempt. This indicates an active, problem-solving mind (as did several of his other behaviors during our session). Then we walked on-leash against the fence line, and although he pulled a couple of times, he was easily corrected when I stopped moving. He slacked off within a few seconds, and once he even sat down, when he determined that forward movement had ceased. I’m sure he could use additional training in this area, given his age and energy level, and considering there were very few distractions, but he was very accepting of the parameters I imposed. I ended the session by giving him a Kong, to encourage relaxation before returning to his run. Once there, he followed me as I entered going in, but then made a dash for the gate when he saw I intended to leave. I threw high-value treats away from the gate, but he snatched them up quickly and I was unable to open the gate without him escaping. I put the harness back on him and double clipped him to the chain link fence, while I left to get him some water. Once back inside with the water bowl, I removed his harness and just stood without moving for about 5 minutes, when I saw him bodily relax, and soon he laid down near my feet. I did have to body block him with my lower leg when I left, and I suspect a slip-leash could facilitate staff entering and exiting his run in the future.
Recommendations: The most pressing issue right now is to get his physical exercise needs met, and the secondary issue is to meet his mental needs. Getting appropriate exercise daily will allow his arousal levels to normalize so he can engage in mental stimulation such as training and games/activitities. It would be very beneficial to test him off-site in the dog reaction areas of the C-BARQ, and do some training and allow him to interact with other well-socialized dogs (mine), on-leash and with another experienced handler, using BAT (Behavior Adjustment Training) techniques.
Dog Parks: Yay or Nay?
by Kim Geisert, CPDT-KA
August 15, 2022
I am one of the only trainers I know who takes my own dogs to dog parks on a regular basis. SOME of my dogs. Not ALL of my dogs. Just like with anything else in life, there are advantages and there are drawbacks to being a dog park “regular.” Dog parks are not appropriate for every dog or every person out there, and you should not feel guilty as a dog parent if you want nothing to do with them.
I have been going to dog parks, both professionally and personally, for over 25 years, and I have seen a lot of $#!T shows—I’ll keep the stories to myself, but I’m sure you’ve heard them. My best advice is: look at your own individual dog and figure out if dog parks are appropriate for that dog and for the behavioral goals you have in mind. My goals for my personal dogs are to use them in sessions with client dogs, both for behavior modification and confidence building, and also as demonstration dogs for obedience programs such as the Canine Good Citizen certification. So I am heavily vested in getting my dogs socialized to a wide range of other dogs and people in lots of different scenarios, at a very early age. And dog parks are fantastic for this purpose—but these are just my goals. Most people don’t need to have their dog successfully interacting with every Fido on the street, so define your goals and recognize the risk factors. Dog parks can be the “mosh pits” of the dog experience: your dog could get physically hurt and/or injure others; their brains are altered, not due to drugs and alcohol, but due to chemical neurotransmitters in an area of the brain called the amygdala; they could possibly have a negative emotional experience that will need behavior modification in order to overcome; and then there’s the human element— dog parks are full of Karens and Cesars who know WAY more about your dog than you do. (Cue 🎶 Metallica c. 1991. Hella. 👿) So here are my “Dog Park Rules,” both for my own and for client dogs:
- Do some prep work. In the beginning, take your dog to the dog park but just hang out in the parking lot, and work up to approaching the fence, so your dog can see the other dogs off-leash interacting and playing with each other. You can also go to a pet store on the weekend, where there will be dogs entering and exiting to go to obedience classes. This way, your dog can see dogs both off and on-leash in public. Throughout these exercises, provide lots of support for your dog by touching, praising, and offering treats to your dog. Don’t worry if your dog won’t take a treat: if they are too excited or too anxious, they will refuse the best of treats. We call this being “over threshold,” but keep offering and be supportive for your dog—- that’s the most important thing. Cut it short if either of you is stressed out, and try again another time.
- Pick your time. You want to go at an “off” time when the park will be relatively empty—-not on a weekend, and not on a weekday before 9 or after 5 PM. Middle of the day on weekdays are best to start with, and keep it short to begin with—30 minutes or less.
- Keep moving. By moving around the perimeter with your dog, you are doing a bonding activity together, and you are supporting your dog. All of my dogs know the “home run” arm gesture, which means keep moving and let’s circle the park (just like ⚾️). You also have way less of a chance of having an altercation with another dog if you’re on the move. Turn off the cell, and if you want to just sit and watch, I’m sure you have a flat screen and streaming at home. Sorry not sorry. Your dog will follow your lead, and if your dog is just sitting at your feet under a bench, you’re defeating the purpose. I’ve seen lots of dogs get “guardy” of their owners in this scenario, and it can get ugly.
- Be prepared for worst case scenarios. Keep your eye on all the dogs in the vicinity of yours, and if body language is telling you there might be an altercation, your best tool is your “happy” voice. By far, the biggest mistake I see at dog parks is the humans yelling and shouting at their own dogs, other dogs, or other humans in an attempt to avoid or break up a fight. Anxiety, fear, and stress are contagious. I know it is difficult in the moment, when tempers and fear are flying around, but the best thing you can do is maintain your calm and project it onto your dog. It doesn’t matter what words you use—just get your pup away from the fracas and leave if necessary.
- Emergency equipment: you should also be prepared for the possibility of a serious fight. They happen. You never want to put your hand or other body part in front of two or more fighting dogs; they will unintentionally redirect onto you. I have a $1 sports whistle hanging from my rearview mirror, and I always wear it to the dog park, because startling them out of it with a loud blast can work. I also keep a makeshift emergency kit in my car, with hydrogen peroxide, saline solution, various sized bandages, baby wipes, and Kwik Klot, which you can get at any pet store, as well as a $10 dog first aid book that I have had for years. Better to have it and not need it…
- Especially at this time of the year: be aware of the heat factor and the possibility of dehydration and overheating. Some dogs are not comfortable drinking out of a communal water fountain, and I always have a container of cold water in my car when my dogs are with me. Trainer’s hack: you can use a poop bag as a water container if you only have a bottle of water with you. Much easier than trying pour water in your dog’s mouth—try it. Also, take a look at your dogs gums and tongue at home when they are nice and cool in the air conditioning. Try to remember the color, and if, at the dog park, you see your dog’s gums are either very pale or very dark, especially with a white foam on them, this is a clear signal that they need water immediately. Other signs of dehydration are: lethargy, excessive panting or drooling, inability to stand or walk, and confusion. Do not hesitate – – – get your dog some water and/or into air conditioning ASAP.
- If you or your dog ever just get a “bad vibe,” leave. Come back later or on another day. Recently, I had only Quint with me after a vet visit, and as I pulled into a parking space at the dog park, I got a weird feeling, looking at the dogs playing in the park— I can’t explain it, but it wasn’t worth the risk. We left without getting out of the car, and he was pissed, but he got over it.
- If you’ve been trying to “dog park” for a while, and your dog seems to only be confrontational, nervous, afraid, or miserable during and after your visits, put it on the back burner. Take a break and re-evaluate— there are lots of other ways to socialize your dog and meet their physical, mental, and emotional needs. Maybe play dates, beach or lake visits, dog-friendly stores and restaurants, non-dog parks, tricks or other types of traditional training, and/or canine enrichment are more to your dog’s liking.
- Seek the help of a professional. I have several “most hated” phrases that people say, and one of them goes something like this: “ Oh, just throw them together and they’ll work it out amongst themselves.” Yeah. No. Please don’t do that to your dog. If you sense that you’re out of your depth at the dog park, get some help, or just don’t go.
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